When to cut back fuchsias to keep them flourishing

Though fuchsia plants fall into two categories – hardy and tender – both need to be pruned at specific times of year. That’s because their liberal lashings of flowers, which can last all summer long into autumn, will only appear on new growth. You’ll need to remove the old, dead stems every year. This is made possible by thoughtful cutting, and the way in which hardy and tender fuchsias prefer this to be done varies.  

If you’re a fan of hardy fuchsias, which are hardy by name and hardy by nature, then you can chill out until – well, the chill is over. Do not cut, snip or prune these plants until the end of winter. Leaving the older growth sitting on top of the whole plant means you create a botanical “jacket” for the fuchsia to wear. The plant will be better insulated by not cutting until the frosts have gone away. You also limit the risk of disease and bacteria entering the plant through the exposed “wounds” you create when you cut a plant.  

“Prune your hardy fuchsias in late March or April once the new growth begins to show,” says Mandy Bradshaw, writing for Thompson & Morgan. “In colder parts of the UK, leave it until all risk of frost has passed. Using sharp secateurs to prevent damage, cut back every stem to a pair of leaf buds around 7-10cm (2-4in) above the earth. 

“If an old plant needs rejuvenating, cut all the stems back to the ground to stimulate new shoots.” 

Bradshaw adds that fuchsias grown as hedges should be cut back to a pair of buds in early spring, to give an even shape. “Leggy hedges can also be reinvigorated by cutting back hard, possibly choosing alternating plants over two years so that the barrier is maintained.” 

Finding the perfect moment to cut back fuchsia plants in your garden will of course depend on the climate you live in.  

“I grow the hardy Fuchsia magellanica in my garden in south Devon,” says Saga Exceptional’s gardening editor Simon Akeroyd. “It is so mild here that we rarely get a frost. For this reason, I’m able to prune it in late January or early February, which encourages it into growth early and extends the flowering season over summer. Don’t try this, though, if you live in an area prone to spring frosts.” 

Tender fuchsias need a little more TLC when it comes to their winter routine. They are more vulnerable to frost and need to be brought inside – whether that’s to a greenhouse, a bright and warm spot indoors or under a cold frame.  

“Fuchsia plants that need to be overwintered undercover should be lifted by the end of September before the first frost, potted up, and cut back by about half,” says Bradshaw. “Remove as many of the leaves as possible. 

“When spring arrives, prune out all the weak growth and cut back all the stems to the lowest pair of good buds. As the side shoots grow, pinch out the growing tip after every three sets of leaves until plants reach the size you want. Pinching out the growing tips will help to produce a bushier plant with plenty of flowers.” 

Gethin Crump, head gardener at the National Trust’s Penrhyn Castle and Garden, looks after an incredible 80m (262ft) long fuchsia arch within the property’s Walled Garden.

The cultivar grown to wind its ways around the arch is Fuchsia magellanica ‘Riccartonii’.

“Hard pruning is usually done in late February into early March, when we spur prune back to the main framework of the plant,” Crump tells Saga Exceptional.

“We continue to prune out any unwanted young shoots (these maybe growing in the wrong direction, damaged by wind, unhealthy-looking shoots). We also tie in the stronger young shoots over the metal arch, which will in later years become the new framework of the plant as we take out the older stems. The fuchsia arch is very labour intensive for us as we try our best to maintain the arch framework, so that our visitors can walk under the structure easily and safely.”

The team ensures the fuchsia is protected over winter by wrapping hessian netting (or whatever else is to hand) around the base of the plants. This is to provide some protection for young emerging roots, as shown in the picture above.

“The soil surrounding the plants is fed with chicken manure pellets and a layer of garden compost (made on site),” Crump adds. “This is done in spring, when the soil has a bit of moisture and warmth. The mulch then locks this into the soil in readiness for the summer weather (when it eventually arrives!).”