The 6 secrets to perfect roses – with a top positioning tip 

Deadheading roses is important – albeit, variety-dependent. It encourages new growth, not to mention, makes for a more polished display in your garden. It’s easy to do using your hands or a sharp pair of secateurs. We’d always advise wearing a pair of gardening gloves to avoid those thorns! Barter says to deadhead roses assiduously in the summer.  

There are, however, some varieties that should not be deadheaded. “Do not, under any circumstances, deadhead roses that you expect to get hips from,” says Barter. Hips will produce lovely red seed pods come autumn. Barter notes that – although they will all look better for deadheading, even those that don’t repeat flower – you’ll get no hips if you deadhead varieties such as Rosa rugosa and Rosa moyesii, for example.   

Although you may only prune and cut roses back once or twice a year, Barter says that it is wise to remove dead and diseased parts of your roses in the summertime. “Deadhead them at this time of year and don’t be afraid to prune out any dead and diseased bits.”

Roses are susceptible to a fair amount of different diseases and pests. The RHS notes the following as most common. 

Barter shares that in a dry spring, there tends to be less disease, but that vigilance is key to spot any signs of rose upset early on. Aphids are a problem in spring, then during the summer months you’ll want to keep a close eye out for other bugs. “The aphids will have come and gone with any luck, so there’s a bit of leaf rolling and caterpillars or grubs, and things that might do a bit of damage,” says Barter.  

The best way to keep bugs at bay is to spend time in your garden, looking at your roses and simply squeezing off any bugs or cutting out any problems when you see them. This way you can avoid using sprays and harsher pest control methods. 

“Sometimes caterpillars and aphids turn up, and the best way to control them is to be vigilant so spend lots of time in your garden walking round and at the first sign of any problem,“ says Barter, who notes that literally pinching them out or disrupting them with your thumb can be all you need to do. Keeping an eye out will help you realise whether you need to apply any products too. In some cases you may get away with a spot treatment that could save you lots of problems later on.

Roses look wonderful in garden borders and containers. If you’re buying new ones, you’ll want to get them in the ground as soon as possible. As with all garden plants, you’ll want to consider their positioning and make sure they are planted in fertile soil. It can depend on the variety, but most roses do best in full sun.  

For brilliant flowers, you will want to ensure your roses are positioned somewhere that enjoys full sun for at least 50% of the day. Furthermore, Sarah Raven notes how it is important to ensure the union of the rose [the base of the plant, above the roots] should be slightly below soil level. If not, it may encourage suckers that can take over the rose.  

When it comes to feeding roses, the RHS recommends doing this twice a year. Once in March/April before flowering and, again, in mid–summer after the first flush of flowers – particularly with repeat-flowering rose varieties.   

Roses are hungry plants and mulching is important to help retain moisture and provide more nutrients, usually in spring after feeding. You can use organic matter from your own compost or manure.

Established roses will have deep-set roots and the moisture from the soil will be enough to sustain them. However, we have seen increasingly hot summers and even mature roses will need some watering in very hot weather.  

 Younger roses will need a lot more moisture to become established. Sarah Raven recommends a good full watering can per rose, per day when it’s hot. Furthermore, it’s important to water the soil directly, avoiding the leaves, as this can help fend off fungal disease. Do not over–water them either.  

Even standard roses will need support and some varieties when established will need more help to ensure they grow correctly and have the best chance of producing beautiful blooms. “Some rose varieties, especially those with large, heavy blooms, may require additional support to maintain their upright growth and prevent damage caused by strong winds or heavy rain,” says Robert Silver, Founder and CEO of ProGardeningBlog.  

Trellises, stakes or cages can be used, as well as canes with garden twine for those that want for flexibility. “By providing reliable support, you not only protect your roses from physical harm but also enhance their aesthetic appeal by maintaining their graceful form and preventing drooping or bending,” adds Silver.